I tasted the broth of the kalguksu and it was SMOKY. It seemed like the cooks grilled beef over charcoals and made broth from that beef. At Myeongdong Gyoja, that's why people waited in lines that snaked down the stairs, out the door and into the street.
When I was in Seoul last week, I met up with Anna Waigand and Andre Francisco of
Seoulful Adventures and
International Underground. They picked the best damn place to get knife-cut noodle soup in Seoul. It was better than
the other kalguksu I had.
The kimchi was a zinger. I picked up a piece with my chopsticks and put it in my mouth.
Woh. Blink. Blink. Eyes widen.
All that raw garlic made my eyes water. I diluted the kimchi in my kalguksu.
We ate pork mandu with our soup. But we just couldn't finish everything.
Anna looked at my bowl and Andre's bowl. The level of kalguksu had gone down in our bowls just enough to make a visible difference. But her bowl looked like she hadn't even started on her soup even though she had. There are never any small meals in Korea.
We had been digging away at our kalguksu for a little while. When I thought I could maybe, possibly eat most of my kalguksu, a waitress refilled my bowl with more broth.
"Well, I thought I was making a dent," I said. Anna and Andre laughed.

The two bloggers teach English in Seoul. They graduated from Northwestern University. While they co-write a food blog called
Seoulful Adventures, they started a journalism project called
International Underground with Greg Boone and Danielle Harms, of
Schoolhouse: ROK. Their goal is to write about people's experiences that haven't been told before. Their first multimedia project looks at Seoul's Filipino community.

The line looks long, but it goes fast. Staff separate customers into groups of two or three and larger.
Myeongdong Gyoja, Seoul, South Korea
Nearest subway station: Myeong-dong station, line 4 (blue), exit 6 or 8.
Directions: Leave Myeong-dong station through exit 8. Walk straight and turn left when you see Crown Bakery and you see a sign for Gye Seong Girls' High School. You can also leave the subway station through exit 6. Then keep walking and turn left at Crown Bakery. Keep going. Myeongdong Gyoja will be on you right. It is between Orbis and Lim's.
Where you turn left after you exit Myeong-dong subway station: